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VISIT SIDMOUTH - DEVON'S REGENCY GEM
 As the sea-gull flies, the south Devon resorts of Sidmouth and
Dawlish are only 12 miles apart. But in between is the River Exe, and the two seaside
towns have developed in totally different styles.
In the early 19th century, the four main Devon resorts were the fishing villages of
Sidmouth, Exmouth, Dawlish and Teignmouth. Torquay didn't blossom till later.
Early visitors were wealthy long-stay health-seekers who came on doctors' orders to
drink and bathe in the sea water, and breathe unpolluted air.
Many more came as a seaside spin-off from aristocratic London and Bath, and they soon
created a similar leisured social life in miniature. Even the Prince Regent himself came
to stay, along with courtiers and all their mistresses.
Travel Facts
Visit our holidays,
breaks and travel options pages
TRAVEL FACTS
2007 Sidmouth Folk Week August 3-10.
A night to remember is Sat September 23, with an annual Sidmouth carnival
from 7.15 p.m.
Sidmouth Regatta is held during the August Bank Holiday weekend, finishing with
fireworks and live music.
The summer play season at the Manor Pavilion Theatre goes from end June to end September,
with programme changed every Thursday.
The Sid Vale Heritage Centre on Church Street is open Easter to October. Guided town
strolls from the Heritage Centre at 10.15 a.m. are offered every Tuesday and Thursday,
and most Wednesdays.
For brochures etc, contact Sidmouth Tourist Information
Centre, Ham Lane, Sidmouth, Devon EX10 8XR Tel: 01395 516441. Email: sidmouthtic@
eclipse.co.uk
Website: www.visitsidmouth.
co.uk
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A simple fishing village like Sidmouth developed into a Regency-type seaside resort with
architecture to match.
Meanwhile the locals went on fishing. The men sailed to the Great Banks off Newfoundland
to harvest cod. When the fishermen returned, they were rolling in money from a triangular
trade - fishing for cod, sailing to Portugal and Spain to sell the catch, and then home
laden with wine for John Bull.
Their sturdy village houses were built well back from the shore. They weren't interested
in sea views or the healing values of sea water and sea breezes. They preferred shelter
from the elements.
So the Regency houses, terraces and lodgings built for short-stay or long-term visitors
had space t o cluster
in-depth along the Esplanade. That's the key to the present-day charm of Sidmouth.
A superb group of lodging houses was built near the promenade by a fisherman who cashed in
with another type of Sidmouth architecture known as cottage orne, with thatched roofs and
very attractive windows.
You can read much of Sidmouth's history from the Blue Plaques on houses that were occupied
by the nobility. Many of these buildings are still intact, while others have become hotels
without losing their Regency charm.
Sidmouth has over 500 listed buildings - mostly Regency style with elegant wrought iron
balconies sheltered by canopies, and white painted house facades.
In the early 19th century, Dawlish had developed in similar style. But in 1846 a railway
line reached out from Exeter and along the coast to Dawlish, which boomed throughout the
next 50 years as an easily-reached holiday destination. The character of Dawlish totally
changed, catering entirely for the up-and-coming summer holiday industry.
In contrast, Sidmouth - east of the River Exe estuary - had no branch line until
1874. Even then the town's holidaymaker development wasn't helped when the line stopped
over a mile out of town. That was deliberate local policy. Upper crust Sidmouth wanted the
railway, but didn't want day trippers who couldn't afford to hire carriages for transport
to the front.
As a result Sidmouth - hemmed in by dramatic red sandstone cliffs - stayed secluded in a
time warp compared with Devon resorts to the west.
Anyway it has been somewhat less popular for the
bucket-and-spade trade
because the main beach is pebble and shingle, except for a strip of beach known as Jacob's
Ladder, just west of town. This Jacob's Ladder beach attracts families at low tide with
its long stretch of golden sand and rock pools to explore.
The town is most popular with visitors who don't want to whoop it up till dawn. There are
no amusement parks or all-night discos. It's a sedate retirement haven where residents
can enjoy a quiet game of bowls or croquet, or slumber away a summer's afternoon watching
cricket.
On the entertainment front, the Sidmouth Town Band gives a concert in Connaught Gardens on
Sunday evenings throughout June to August, while the local Radway Cinema has regular
changes of programme. A weekly rep company features a summer season of drama and comedy at
the Manor Pavilion Theatre.
Sidmouth takes special pride in its floral displays, and always scores in "Britain in
Bloom" contests. Highlights are Connaught and Blackmore Gardens, with shops,
guesthouses, hotels and private gardens all adding to the blaze of colour.
Quite close are the picturesque villages of Sidbury and Salcombe Regis, which is also home
to a Donkey Sanctuary. Further east is Branscombe, full of thatch.
The National Trust has two properties within a half-hour drive: Killerton House and Pow derham Castle - stately homes with fabulous gardens.
Despite Sidmouth's genteel character, in early August for fifty
years the resort burst into
life as the host for the International Festival of Folk Arts, one of the largest festivals
of its type in Europe.
But the international backers pulled out. The event has been replaced by a locally-organised Sidmouth Folk
Week, scheduled for 3-10 August 2007. Contact the
Tourist Information Centre for latest programme details and ticketing.
Copyright: Reg Butler
Check out these alternative West Country destinations:
BATH - weekend in Jane Austen territory
CORNWALL - choosing low season
CORNWALL - NORTH for
beaches, cliffs & legends
DARTMOOR -
Freedom to roam and explore
DAWLISH - Pioneer railway age
resort
EXETER/EXMOUTH - Tour base for
South Devon
ILFRACOMBE & NORTH DEVON -
The Heritage coast
LYNTON & LYNMOUTH - Devon's
Siamese-twin resorts
SOMERSET -
Choosing a farm cottage for a walking holiday
UP THE OTTER IN DEVON
- A winter cottage haven
"Books to read - click on cover pictures" or
click on the links below
The
Rough Guide to Devon and Cornwall - Robert Andrews - Packed with accommodation
recommendations, especially in the lower-cost sector.
South Devon
and Dartmoor Walks - Brian Conduit - Explores the hills and valleys of South
Devon.
AA 50 Walks
in Devon - Sue Viccars - An AA guide in a handy pocket format.
The
Hidden Places of Devon - David Gerrard, Sarah Bird (Illustrator) - This book focuses
on the more
off-trail areas of Devon.
Ordnance
Survey - Exeter & Sidmouth - No. 192 in the Landranger Map series,
covering the area described in the article.
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